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Although
it is not very large the municipal territory of Rio Gordo contains three different
natural areas that even the most inattentive visitor will not fail to notice.
The northern part, the most rugged, is crowned by the Tajo de Gómer
(Gómer cliff, 1,129 metres) and the Sierra del Rey mountains with the
Castejón peak (972 metres). Between these mountain masses flows the
River La Cueva, whose headwaters are in El Borbollón de Auta and which
forms a small valley abounding in grain fields and grazing lands. Farther
south is a landscape of gentle hills covered with olive trees, which continues
to be the main plant cover of the municipality when yet farther south the
terrain again becomes abrupt and acquires the typical characteristics of the
Malaga Mountains. For more information about property
for sale in Spain in or near Rio Gordo please contact us.
It is a curious fact that this village at its foundation took the name of the river and not the opposite, since it is customary for a river that passes through a village to adopt its name. Perhaps this shows the degree to which this locality has been dependent on its river, whose name refers to the water being mineral-laden or “gordo” (fat). In years past, the present River La Cueva was known as the River Gordo or River De Oro (River of Gold). The first human settlements were established in its environs in the Neolithic Period, to be precise at El Tajo de Gómer. Some tombs from the period of Phoenician colonisation have been found adjacent to Sierrecilla del Rey, and the villas at Auta, that of Llano del Rey and Capellanía, with magnificent third-century mosaics, are from the Roman period. There is no doubt, however, that it was during the Arabic domination that this area experienced its greatest growth. The theory that the Bobastro castle was in the vicinity of the Auta farmstead is held by some historians, who go even further and state that this castle may have been the birthplace of Omar Ben Hafsun, the Muladí chieftain who according to other historians was born in Parauta, in the Ronda highlands.
After it was conquered by the Christians in 1487 Rio Gordo belonged to Comares, and most of its lands passed into the hands of Francisco de Coalla, regent of Malaga, first Lord of Auta and castle commandant of Comares. Before the conquest, the locality was known as Aprisco de Majianza, and at the beginning of the sixteenth century, it was already being referred to as Puebla de Rio Gordo. It was during the last part of this century and the first part of the following one that the village doubled its population (from 620 to 1,176), possibly due to the protection provided by Comares. The village’s economic growth and the flow of population to it are shown by the fact that in 1561 the village had three brothels controlled by one Sancho Marroquí, while three innkeepers were in charge of “sheltering in their houses and inns all the women of the street that may go there to earn money with their bodies”. Rio Gordo was designated a municipality in 1552 and its first corregidor (magistrate) was Francisco Hernández.
The establishment of vineyards in the eighteenth century again favoured the village’s demographic growth, and according to the census, it contained 2,120 souls in 1787. The population would continue to increase until 1882, when the phylloxera pest broke out and the vineyards were destroyed.
Fiestas
The Fair takes place in mid-August, beginning with the transfer of the statue
of Nuestro Padre Jesús Nazareno (Our Father Jesus of Nazareth) from
the San Sebastián hermitage to the parish church, an ancient tradition
with roots in the seventeenth century. The next day the village’s patron
saints, Nuestra Señora de Gracia (Our Lady of Grace) and San Jacinto
are carried in a procession. The Fair includes the famed flamenco festival
“El Río del Cante” (River of Song) and a livestock show
with a “suelta de vaquillas” (release of calves) at the place
known as El Calvario. There is no shortage of verbenas and fireworks displays,
and the last day is dedicated to the emigrants, many of whom are in the village
spending a few days of vacation.
The “veladilla” is celebrated from 27 to 29 May. This is a livestock fair with a strong gastronomic element. Huge quantities of snails, the star attraction of the local cuisine, are consumed. This fair is also held at El Calvario. The Feria del Candil (7 September) is another traditional festivity in Riogordo. On that date, there are bonfires and “candil” (oil lamp) contests. This village has a peculiar concept of the “sanjuaneo” on the eve of the day of San Juan (23 June). In Rio Gordo, instead of building bonfires and burning the “júas” (Judases), water is substituted for fire and in keeping with tradition the young people, mainly, pour pails of water over themselves until they are soaked. It is during the Semana Santa (Holy Week), however, that Riogordo plays the greatest role with the enactment of the Passion Play on Good Friday and Holy Saturday. No fewer than 400 villagers take part in this production that is acted out on natural stages. The Passion Play includes 14 stages in two different categories: the first presents various acts in Jesus’ public life (the Sermon on the Mount, the healing of a blind man, the meeting with the Samaritan, etc.), and the second is based on what is, strictly speaking, the Passion.
Over time, the texts that are enacted have been subjected to a kind of stage review and have come to be considered exemplary dramatisations in their genre. The Riogordeños’ identification with the Passion Play is absolute, and one might even say contagious, as thousands of people travel here during these days to admire a large scale production with extraordinary dramatic standards.
Food
Caracoles en caldillo (snails in sauce) is without a doubt this village’s
most characteristic dish. Other specialties in Rio Gordo are olla (a kind
of stew) and cocido con garbanzos (stewed chickpeas), porra (a cold soup),
setas de espino (a kind of mushroom), migas (a dish made from fried bread
crumbs) and gazpacho de habas verdes (a traditional cold soup, which in this
case contains green broad beans and is also known as gazpacho cortijero).
In this locality, the traditional hornazo (a kind of pastry) is made in the
shape of animals. Chacinas de cerdo (pork cold cuts) are of a very high quality
in this municipality, and as for confectionery, tortas de aceite (olive oil
cakes) are especially to be recommended.
How to get there:
You can choose from three different routes to get to Rio Gordo. The
quickest and most comfortable is the one that leaves the city of Malaga
by the A-45 (N-331) in the direction of Antequera.
At Casabermeja take the A-356, and you will
get to Rio Gordo after about 18 kilometres.
Another access route also starts in Malaga. This
is the A-6103, known as the Carretera de los Montes (Mountain Road) or Antiguo
Camino de Colmenar (Old Colmenar Road). When you
get to this city, continue on the A-6118 to Rio Gordo. The first half of this
route is an uninterrupted succession of curves that do not allow high speeds.
By way of compensation, the landscape through which it passes is extremely
beautiful.
If you happen to be on the Eastern Costa del Sol, instead of going to the
city of Malaga to get onto the aforementioned routes
you can leave the Mediterranean Expressway (A-7; N-340) and get onto the A-335
at Velez Malaga. You will come to the turning
for the A-356 after 14 kilometres, and this leads to Rio Gordo.
Tourist information:
Town Hall, Plaza de la Constitución, 14 (29180). Telephone:
952 732 154; Fax: 952 732 380.
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