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Alfarnate is yet another example of the enormous diversity of the province of Malaga, since despite its considerable height above sea level (925 metres) the village is located in an area that, judging from the surrounding topography, might be considered a plain. The land near the village is occupied by olive and almond trees and fields of chickpeas, behind which jut up rocky peaks that still have small groves of the evergreen oaks that in earlier times covered the entire region. Puerto de los Alhazores, at an altitude of 1,040 metres, and Puerto del Sol (1,100 metres) are the natural passes that allow travel between this area and the country around it. For more information on property for sale in Spain in or near Alfarnate please contact us.
The urban layout of this locality is simple, and its most noticeable feature is that it is divided by the Palancar stream, over which three bridges have been built. Since there is no very uneven terrain, contrary to the case of nearly all villages in La Axarquía, the visitor will not have to avoid slopes and steps when touring the village, whose most remarkable street is named Secretaría and has several interesting buildings from the sixteenth century.
Every indication is that the village came into being with
the caravan traffic between the coast and the interior through Puerto de los
Alhazores, which occurred mainly during the Nazarite period. Its name, al-Farnat,
meaning flour mill, shows its Arabic origin. It was nevertheless, with the
resettlement carried out by the Christians that it was recognised as a “villa”
(royal burgh) and received the name of Puebla de los Alfarnates, a name that
also included the municipality of Alfarnatejo from the early sixteenth century
until the eighteenth, when the municipalities were separated.
It does not seem that including two municipal areas with a certain amount
of autonomy under a single name pleased either village, and their residents
showed signs of enmity until just a few years ago. Nevertheless, the geographic
proximity of the two villages has caused them to have some events in common,
like, for instance, becoming a refuge of bandits fleeing from the “migueletes”
(Civil Guard) during the nineteenth century.
Fiestas
Alfarnate’s festive calendar opens on 2 February with the Candelaria
celebrations, which consist of the “running of the aulagas”. Aulaga
(gorse) is a plant that, once dry, is prepared in bunches that are ignited
and the younger people, generally, go through the streets with these peculiar
torches. On this day, bonfires are also lit in various places.
25 April is the day of the San Marcos pilgrimage, held in the area called
Venta Seca. The people gather there to eat the traditional hornazo con choto
(roast kid). After the meal, the image of Saint Marcos is borne in a procession,
as is that of the Virgin of Monsalud, which remains in the church until 13
June, the day it is returned in a procession to its hermitage. On 15 May,
the day of San Isidro, another pilgrimage is held after a mass in the Santo
Cristo hermitage.
The Virgen de Monsalud patron saint fiestas (12 September) are the ones that
have the deepest roots in the village. That is the day of the “Embajadas”
(“Embassies”), which is how the fiesta of “moros y cristianos”
(Moors and Christians) is known in this locality. The two bands act out a
struggle for the recovery of the statue of the Virgin, which has been stolen
by the Moors. Before the battle, the Christians send ambassadors to the enemy
to ask for the return of the image. This is the moment when the “Relaciones”
(“Relations”) are recited; this same text was already being used
in the seventeenth century. With the rejection by the Moors the battle breaks
out and, naturally, the Christians win and recover the statue, which is borne
through the streets of the village as a way of making amends.
Every year on the eve of San Juan the ancient tradition of “Sanjuanear”
is revived, a ritual that extends through all the villages of the Mediterranean
but that has a special meaning here. Paganism and Christianity mingle in a
fiesta that lasts until well into the early hours.
Food
Other than the “huevos a lo bestia” of the Antigua Venta
de Alfarnate, this locality’s most typical dishes are ajoblanco (a cold
garlic soup), cata (another cold soup), cachorreña (soup made with
oranges), gachas (a soup made with flour and seasoning), migas (a dish of
fried bread crumbs) and choto frito (fried kid). As for pastries, rosco carrero
(a spiral bun), hornazos and tortas de aceite (olive oil cakes) should be
mentioned. Another local speciality, Resolí, is made in Alfarnate from
brandy and boiled coffee, for anyone who wants to try unusual drinks.
How to get there:
There are two routes from the Costa
del Sol to Alfarnate. One is the Mediterranean expressway (A-7; former
N-340) to the Velez-Malaga exit, at which
point he should take the A-335 to El Cruce, and there the A-6118 towards Periana,
and from here he will arrive at Alfarnate via the MA-156.
The other route, from the city of Malaga, is the
N-331. Eight kilometres past Casabermeja is
the sign for the turn towards Colmenar by the
A-356. Less than 10 kilometres farther along it connects with the A-6118,
which in turn connects with the A-6100 and the MA-155, which finally leads
to Alfarnate.
Tourist information:
Town Hall, Plaza de la Constitución, 1 (29194). Telephone: 952 759
028; Fax: 952 759 752
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